After getting the leg components S4S, they were laminated up.
At this stage everything is oversized – the thickness and width actually don’t matter – the chunkier the better, I’m just shooting for a minimum of 120x80mm. The length was deliberately left about 50mm oversized to account for any movement while clamping.
After the glue was tried, a redressing was needed for the legs to be square.
And slicey dicey at the mitre saw as I dont’ have anything else that can easily cut through that sort of thickness. A new mitresaw blade (Flai Z-type) was effortless to cut through this too.
I clamped two legs together to route each mortise. As the legs are the same thickness, this just increases the reference surface for the router base, making it a safer and more managable operation. The edge guide keeps the mortise where I need it. I’d do my passes to full depth at one fence setting, then move onto the next mortise. Once they were all done, I adjusted the edge guide to widen the mortise and repeated.
Short Stretchers Tenons
The absolute easiest, and quickest way to cut repeatable tenons – particularly when they’re large – is to use a stop block on a crosscut sled with a dado blade. It took a few attempts to dial in the perfect fit in the first ~2mm of the stretcher or on scraps, but after that only a minute or so per tenon.
Before gluing up the leg assemblies (2 legs + 2 short stretchers), I drilled out the holes for the vise components.
This counter-bored hole will be for the flange of the linear bearing that will be used to create the parallel guide. There was one other hole drilled for the wooden screw for the leg vise.
Bench Bolt Holes
As I discussed in a previous video, I’ll be using knock down hardware that I made out of aluminium bar stock. This means that I don’t need to glue in the long stretchers to the legs. However, it does mean that I need to drill a hole through the mortise in the legs, and into the long stretchers.
Extending the hole through the mortise.
Here you can see the hole through the tenon, that extends to the other 1″ hole for the aluminium nuts.
Then I can synch down the M12 bolts into the aluminium nuts using a socket wrench. The metal hardware provides the clamping pressure, the mortise and tenon add a lot of strength against racking. Worst case if I decide I don’t like this, I can always glue the tenons into the mortises and patch it with some dowels.